From Milk to Magic: Discovering Parmigiano Reggiano at Caseificio Ugolotti

Tucked away in the rolling hills of Parma lies a place where time slows down, and age-old traditions live on in every golden wheel of cheese. Our journey from the bustling streets of Milan to the serene heartland of Emilia-Romagna brought us to Caseificio Ugolotti, a family-run dairy where Parmigiano Reggiano is crafted with passion, patience, and pride. What began as a simple curiosity about cheese turned into an unforgettable experience—one that awakened our senses and deepened our appreciation for the art of Italian cheesemaking. Here’s how our flavorful adventure unfolded.

The Road to Parmigiano: From Milan to the Heart of Cheese Country

Milan marked the first stop on our much-awaited European Adventure 2025, and we couldn’t have asked for a more vibrant beginning. Along with our dear friends — Praveen & Meenakshi and Mohit & Naiyya — we landed in the fashion capital of Italy on 17 May, buzzing with excitement for the journey ahead.

The next day, 18 May, was all about soaking in Milan’s energy: strolling through the grand Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, marvelling at the magnificent Duomo, and indulging in the city’s café culture. It was the perfect mix of sightseeing, souvenir shopping, and shared laughter.

When the others decided to head to Venice on 19 May, Ulhas and I chose to take a different route. Having visited the floating city a couple of times before, we were keen on something more rustic and immersive — and what better than diving into the world of Parmigiano Reggiano right where it’s born?

We booked a tour at Caseificio Ugolotti, a traditional cheese factory near Parma, through their official website, selecting the 10:30 AM slot which included a post-tour lunch. We left our Airbnb in Milan, located about 800 meters from Central Station, at 8:00 AM, caught a morning train – Trenitalia, and reached Caseificio Ugolotti by 9:35 AM.

With nearly an hour to go before the tour began, we relaxed, took in the rural charm of the peaceful countryside surroundings, excited for what lay ahead and built up our appetite — not just for food, but for knowledge and discovery.

Crafting Parmigiano Reggiano: A Behind-the-Scenes Experience

Right on cue at 10:30 AM, a cheerful figure stepped out of the outlet shop across from the factory, greeting us with a warm smile and confident stride. This was Kiara, our guide for the tour, and as we’d soon learn, a central figure in the Caseificio Ugolotti story.

She introduced herself as the manager of the shop, and with unmistakable pride, shared that the factory was a family-run enterprise — her husband and father-in-law handled the cheese production, while she oversaw the retail and guided curious visitors like us through the magic behind the scenes. Her friendly demeanor and depth of knowledge instantly set the tone for a fascinating, personal experience.

Before stepping inside, we were each handed a white head cap — a small but essential ritual to maintain hygiene inside the sacred space where milk begins its transformation. Once suited up, Kiara led us through a side path behind the shop and into the heart of the factory.

The moment we stepped inside the factory, we were greeted by the warm, slightly sweet aroma of fresh milk and whey — a sensory welcome into the world of Parmigiano Reggiano. In front of us, a team of skilled cheesemakers worked with quiet precision, their movements choreographed by years of tradition. Nine large copper cauldrons, conical in shape and plunging four metres deep, lined the production area. These impressive vessels bubbled gently as milk, freshly collected from nearby farms, began its transformation into cheese.

Kiara, ever articulate and passionate, guided us through each stage of the process in detail. She explained that the factory operated in two daily shifts, producing 18 wheels of cheese, each weighing approximately 40 kilograms once fully solidified. The milk used came from a dedicated local farm, where cows are fed strictly natural fodder, as mandated by the Parmigiano Reggiano consortium, which enforces rigorous standards to preserve the authenticity of this iconic cheese.

The process began with the careful heating of the milk to exactly 48.3°C (hope I am correct). To initiate coagulation, natural rennet — an enzyme derived from the stomach lining of young calves — was added. As the curds began to form, they were stirred and cut with mechanical precision using a spinning arm, sometimes called a mechanical spoon. The curds gradually settled to the bottom of the cauldron, forming a dense mass.

With practiced ease, the cheesemakers then lifted the curd using muslin cloth, dividing it into two portions. These were gently placed into cylindrical molds, each lined with a stenciled band that would emboss the wheel with essential identification — the dairy’s code, the production date, and the iconic dotted inscription of “Parmigiano Reggiano.”

Kiara explained that after spending 48 hours in the molds, the cheese begins to solidify and take on its iconic wheel shape. During this time, any excess whey is gently pressed out, leaving behind a firm, compact mass.

Once she had walked us through this mesmerizing process, Kiara led us downstairs to the next stage in the cheese’s journey — the Salting Room, where the transformation would continue in silence and brine.

Once this shaping process is complete, the wheels are transferred to this cool, quiet Salting Room where they are immersed in large saltwater baths. The salt used is entirely natural, and plays a crucial role — not just in flavouring, but also in helping the cheese form a protective rind. Over the course of about 23 days, the wheels are regularly tossed and turned, ensuring even absorption of the salt and laying the groundwork for the rich, complex flavour Parmigiano Reggiano is known for.

From here, the salted wheels are finally ready for the long and patient wait. Kiara pointed to a set of heavy doors at the back of the room — the entrance to the Aging Room, where silence, time, and care would now take over.

As Kiara opened the heavy doors to the Aging Room, a wave of cool, earthy aroma enveloped us — the unmistakable scent of time at work. We had seen photographs of this space before, with its towering racks and golden wheels stacked like treasure, but seeing it in person was truly breathtaking.

Hundreds of wheels of Parmigiano Reggiano lined the room in precise, towering columns, each one proudly bearing the embossed markings imprinted during its early days in the mold — a combination of dairy codes, production dates, and the iconic dotted “Parmigiano Reggiano” band.

Kiara explained that the wheels were arranged month-wise, reflecting their age — from freshly turned one-year-olds to mature three-year veterans, patiently deepening in flavour and texture. According to the consortium rules, each wheel must age for a minimum of 12 months. At that point, a trained inspector visits the dairy, tapping each wheel with a special hammer to assess its internal structure by sound. Only those that pass this test are officially certified and branded as true Parmigiano Reggiano.

We wandered through the aisles, completely mesmerized, stopping to admire the details on the wheels, to soak in the quiet dignity of this space where time and tradition shape each block of cheese. Cameras clicked non-stop — it was impossible not to capture the beauty and the sheer scale of what we were witnessing.

With hearts full and memory cards fuller, we made our way out of the aging room. Next up: the moment we had been eagerly awaiting — the tasting and the lunch.

We settled into the charming outdoor café beside the cheese store, with the soft spring sun warming the courtyard and a gentle breeze carrying the scent of fresh grass and aged cheese. It was time for the grand finale — the tasting.

Kiara returned, this time not with information, but with indulgence. She served us three varieties of Parmigiano Reggiano, aged one, two, and three years, each paired with a glass of local wine, delicate slices of fresh Parma ham, and a unique twist — a drizzle of pear-flavoured balsamic vinegar that perfectly complemented the cheese.

As we tasted each wedge, we could truly feel the progression of time on the palate — the one-year-old was milky and tender, the three-year robust and crystalline, but it was the two-year-old that struck the perfect balance for both of us — rich, nutty, and full of character.

With our taste buds fully awakened, we moved indoors to the adjoining café for lunch. The meal was a celebration of local flavors: pillowy gnocchi, delicate anolini pasta filled with meat in a light broth, followed by a decadent panna cotta and a scoop of coffee-drenched ice cream — every bite was indulgent, every moment satisfying.

After this unforgettable meal, we naturally couldn’t leave without a visit to the store. We stocked up on wheels and wedges of cheese, each lovingly vacuum-sealed to carry home a taste of Parma. Then, with smiles on our faces and shopping bags in hand, we headed into Parma town, strolling its quiet streets before catching the evening train back to Milan.

It had been a truly enriching and delicious day — one where tradition, taste, and travel blended seamlessly. And even as we boarded the train, we could still feel the warm hospitality… and taste that perfect bite of cheese.